Pearl
Pearl formation, types (natural, Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian, freshwater), grading factors, identification, and care.
Introduction
Pearls are organic gems formed when a mollusc deposits concentric layers of
nacre (aragonite crystals bound by conchiolin) around an irritant. They are
the most commercially important organic gems and the only gems created by
living creatures.
Nearly all pearls in today's market are cultured—human-initiated by inserting
a bead nucleus or tissue. Natural pearls are extremely rare and primarily
found in antique jewellery.
Pearl Formation
Understanding how pearls form:
Natural Pearls
- Form spontaneously without human intervention
- Irritant (often parasite) enters mantle tissue
- Mollusc secretes nacre layers around irritant
- Takes years to form
- Extremely rare today
Cultured Pearls
- Human-initiated by inserting nucleus
- Bead-nucleated: Shell bead with mantle tissue
- Tissue-nucleated: Mantle tissue only
- Same nacre deposition process as natural
- Both natural and cultured are real pearls
Nacre Composition
- Aragonite: Calcium carbonate crystals (brick-like platelets)
- Conchiolin: Organic binder between layers
- Structure: Overlapping platelets create iridescence
- Thickness: Quality indicator; thicker is better
Saltwater Pearl Types
| Type | Mollusc | Origin | Characteristics | Size Range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Akoya | Pinctada fucata | Japan, China, Vietnam | Round, white/cream with rose overtone | 2-11mm |
| South Sea (white) | Pinctada maxima | Australia, Indonesia, Philippines | Large, white/silver/cream | 9-20mm |
| South Sea (golden) | Pinctada maxima | Philippines, Indonesia | Large, golden to deep gold | 9-16mm |
| Tahitian | Pinctada margaritifera | French Polynesia | Dark colours (grey, green, peacock) | 8-16mm |
Freshwater Pearls
Freshwater pearls are cultivated primarily in China:
Characteristics
- Mollusc: Hyriopsis cumingii (triangle mussel)
- Nucleation: Often tissue-only (solid nacre)
- Shapes: From baroque to near-round to round
- Colours: White, pink, lavender, peach
- Production: One mussel can produce 20-50 pearls
Modern Developments
- Edison pearls: Bead-nucleated; large, round
- Ming pearls: High-quality round freshwater
- Quality now rivals saltwater in best examples
- Price remains lower than saltwater equivalents
Pearl Grading Factors
| Factor | Description | Premium Quality |
|---|---|---|
| Lustre | Surface reflection and inner glow | Mirror-like with depth |
| Surface | Blemishes, spots, pits | Clean or near-clean |
| Shape | Round, near-round, baroque | Round (for classic) |
| Colour | Body colour + overtone | Rich, even colour |
| Nacre | Thickness and quality | Thick, well-formed |
| Size | Diameter in millimetres | Larger = more valuable |
| Matching | Strand uniformity | Consistent throughout |
Lustre is Paramount
Colour Components
Pearl colour has three parts:
Body Colour
The main background colour:
- White, cream, silver, gold, black, grey
- Pink, peach, lavender in some varieties
- Natural vs dyed colours
Overtone
A translucent secondary colour:
- Rose (pink) overtone on white pearls
- Green or peacock overtone on Tahitian
- Adds depth and value
Orient
Iridescent rainbow effect:
- Caused by nacre platelet interference
- Most visible in fine nacre
- Sign of quality
Identification Tests
Distinguishing natural, cultured, and imitation pearls:
| Test | Natural/Cultured | Imitation |
|---|---|---|
| Tooth test | Gritty, slightly rough | Smooth or glassy |
| Surface texture | Tiny scale-like platelets | Too perfect or painted |
| Drill hole | Nacre visible all around | Coating may flake |
| Weight | Solid, substantial | Often lighter |
| Temperature | Cool to touch initially | Room temperature |
Natural vs Cultured
Treatments
Common pearl treatments:
- Bleaching: Lightens colour; very common
- Dyeing: Adds colour; should be disclosed
- Irradiation: Darkens nuclei (creates dark colours)
- Lustre enhancement: Coatings; temporary
- Filling: Repairs damaged nacre; quality issue
Pearl Care
Famous Pearls
Notable pearls in history:
- La Peregrina: 50.56 ct; once owned by Elizabeth Taylor
- Hope Pearl: 1,800 grains; blister pearl
- Pearl of Allah: 14 lbs; giant clam pearl (non-nacreous)
- Abernethy Pearl: 44 grains; Scottish freshwater